tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post8838765451587217049..comments2023-11-02T13:56:02.310+00:00Comments on James Pearson: James Pearsonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01937168070793368723noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-8829316201145270092008-11-27T11:04:00.000+00:002008-11-27T11:04:00.000+00:00Superb post, passionate and articulate.Interesting...Superb post, passionate and articulate.<BR/><BR/>Interesting to hear about grading hard routes from someone who can actually climb them!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12629800050712974047noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-85818869613644084262008-11-17T22:17:00.000+00:002008-11-17T22:17:00.000+00:00James,Dificult as it is, just try to ignore the do...James,<BR/>Dificult as it is, just try to ignore the doubtors and sad cranks who have nothing better to do than spread vile to appease their own envy. 'The Groove' has had many suitors, but only you managed to climb it. Let the crowd prove that they can follow you, and if they cannot, they should just shut up.<BR/>Stay safe,Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-44837169413294621002008-11-17T03:15:00.000+00:002008-11-17T03:15:00.000+00:00Excellent post, well reasoned. Good to hear you go...Excellent post, well reasoned. Good to hear you got to talk to the american lads and find out how they arrived at their views.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-66579368137303878982008-11-15T15:23:00.000+00:002008-11-15T15:23:00.000+00:00I think that your penultimate paragraph accurately...I think that your penultimate paragraph accurately portrays E grades. Routes, especially well established ones are the grade they are through peer consensus, they settle and then endure, even if the number of people able and willing to climbing them increases, through improved standards.<BR/><BR/>However, route grading, just as route setting can only truly and accurately be done by people with experience at that grade.<BR/><BR/>You would not expect someone bouldering Font 7a to consistently set problems at 8a or above, why. They have nether the experience or strength to accurately be able to grade the problem. It is accepted that very few people can set consistently more than 2 grades above their limit, if that.<BR/><BR/>In conclusion, it is unlikely that anyone not climbing E8 or above could accurately and consistently comment on E10 and above. Having nether the skill, strength, nor experience to do the routes. Perhaps the climbing community should therefore leave the big grades, both climbing and grading them to the big boys and girls who have the experience to do this best.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-62899747048425638342008-11-14T16:10:00.000+00:002008-11-14T16:10:00.000+00:00Smart and well-argued. A refreshing break from th...Smart and well-argued. A refreshing break from the impulsive stuff shouted across the climbing blogosphere.Peterhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15542191335914184705noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-19772887086548264022008-11-14T15:48:00.000+00:002008-11-14T15:48:00.000+00:00Hi James,it's sad that you felt 'stung' by the stu...Hi James,<BR/>it's sad that you felt 'stung' by the stuff some people had written about you. If you go on any webpage that allows comments, for example at the Guardian site, you get people posting really offensive things anonymously. <BR/>It's a common problem - I hope you just dismiss these people as the morons that they are, I'm certain the majority of readers do. They're not worth getting upset about.<BR/>All the best.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-80184047696354007842008-11-14T15:43:00.000+00:002008-11-14T15:43:00.000+00:00WORD!Brilliant!Standards DO, SHOULD and MUST move ...WORD!<BR/>Brilliant!<BR/>Standards DO, SHOULD and MUST move on.Björn Pohlhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03324724271532941660noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-45769475287795622812008-11-13T18:37:00.000+00:002008-11-13T18:37:00.000+00:00As ever another well thought out post - even thoug...As ever another well thought out post - even though the grades at the top level are way beyond my ability I look forward to reading your thoughts on the "ever widening English tech grade".Buttershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15383656375486097457noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-15186201760026319252008-11-13T14:27:00.000+00:002008-11-13T14:27:00.000+00:00New grades should be nothing to be scared about, n...<I>New grades should be nothing to be scared about, nor should they be scorned, but this appears to be the mentality in the UK, which in my opinion has done incredible damage to the UK trad system, resulting in cries of “the E Grade is broken”. I don’t think it is broken, but I do think it is being misused and if it is to regain any usefulness there need to be some fundamental refines, starting with the insanity that is the ever widening English tech grade! (more about this in my next post)<BR/></I><BR/><BR/>Word.Fiendhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01675152383774213576noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-39316924161699323882008-11-13T01:56:00.000+00:002008-11-13T01:56:00.000+00:00Don't let grades and opinions bother you, just go ...Don't let grades and opinions bother you, just go and climb and enjoy it, the shit on UKC meens nothing, good luck!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1742578140177423854.post-4975898787960106502008-11-12T21:57:00.000+00:002008-11-12T21:57:00.000+00:00Brilliant postBrilliant postJon Redshawhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10669560987755630968noreply@blogger.com