Sunday, 7 December 2008

Pete, Ben, and John...  Amazing effort today.  Would love to have been there but am suffering from a particulary harsh dose of American Man Flu (not too dissimilar to African Bum Disease).  Make the most of these good conditions and get on The Groove.

And big up to Belay Ben, he has gone through a lot belaying you over the years!  Thinking about it, I probably didnt do him any favours on Equilibrium either, but at least he got to get you back with the Triathlon scene ;)

An era many moons ago... How very true...  Regardless of all the bullshit, some fun times were had.

Sorry to any other readers if this post seems exclusive and personal.  Maybe it would have been better to post elsewhere, oh well.  Wheres the fun in conforming all the time ;)


Anonymous said...

Hi James,

Congratulations on the number of posts the Promise is getting on UKC. I wish people would talk about my routes as much. Maybe it is because my routes are too hard (although at severe and E1 I doubt that).

Anyway, I was just wondering if you could expand on your philosophies regarding bouldering mats on routes. I always agreed that mats on trad routes diminish the challenge but for some reason after reading Alex the American's comment about it being "retarted" I kind of for some reason changed my mind. Maybe a bouldering mat should be treated like any other bit of kit. If you have it, use it. Anyway, I'd love to hear your views on this.


Rich Ackbar

James Pearson said...

Hey Rich,

The fuss about The Promise is extraordinary and becoming kind of amusing to tell you the truth :)

On to the point in question, and I will try to keep this brief.

I can see sense in both sides of the argument, and ultimately anyone is free to try, do, use whatever they want.

However, my problem with using mats to protect Trad routes (especially short ones with likely groundfall) is that unlike any other form of protection, the level to which they will protect is unlimited!

You can place as many pads as you can get your hands on, with each pad making the route that little bit safer, and with no obvious end point, where do you draw the line?

I think they are a fantastic form of protection, and using them would certainly cause me less stress (an possibly injury:( ) but due to the unlimited nature of the protection they can offer, I dont think they can fit into the current grading system for Trad routes, a system that is partly based on the "fixed danger" aspect of the particular route.

Although... If you choose to shun the "E" grade, or even grades altogether, and just go climbing, then surely you are "free" to use as many pads as you like?

Now there's a thought ;)

Anonymous said...

Hey james, hope you've had a good christmas and a good new year!!

Anonymous said...

Yo J !

JC here ! been a lllong time mate !
Glad ya crankong and i told ya you would be a world class climber, i told ya mum this many years ago !

All the best !


Anonymous said...

Did you see the Mac Attack did yir route james?

What a chap.

Anonymous said...

Hi James

It would be really interesting to read your thoughts on Dave Mac's second ascent of your "Walk of Life".

Also do you have any plans to get out repeating some of the longer non-grit E9/10s? Would be great to see you getting on some of Dave Birkett's routes, for instance.

Anonymous said...

Only just seen this. Big up.