Being back in Brucklyn means getting back to business, and Keith and I wasted no time in slotting back into a daily routine that is now becoming familiar. A few blogs ago, I mentioned that there is now no such thing as a rest day, and for now that trend is continuing and I feel pretty good for it. Running is still something that I despise – solely for the discomfort it causes me whilst practicing, but I am persevering and in some masochistic way I am beginning to look forward to the next one. You see, Keith and I are almost as unfit as each other, but twice as stubborn and neither will give up until the day’s goal has been achieved. We could run slower, or for less time, and for sure this would slowly improve our fitness. But the actual percentage of time from our day spent running is so small, it seems like a cop out to go any less than all in.
One genuinely great thing about running is the feeling of elation when its over. At the end of every run, it has become customary to completely submerge oneself in the icy water that flows through town, and your aching legs, painful heart and hot, fuzzy head are immediately replaced with a fresh tingly feeling all over your body. I often find myself wishing I could bottle this feeling and sip it on the actual run, but for now memories will have to do.

Fingerboarding has also found its way back into our daily routine and I am shocked, no, disgusted at how weak I have become. I used to pride myself on my finger strength and always considered myself lucky at how little I felt I needed to train to maintain a good level. Well not anymore it seems. Almost a year away from bouldering has definitely taken its toll and exercises that were undemanding in the past, are now seriously taxing, and in some cases impossible. Fortunately I think Fingerboarding (if done right) is one of the most un-intensive types of training you can do and I should be able to work in at least a session or two ever other day into my current schedule. I hope that within a couple of months I will be back to my old levels, just in time for the bouldering season.

Thankfully “real” climbing is going ok and I am getting close to one of my projects that a few sessions ago felt completely unfeasible. I still feel like I am getting pumped way too quickly, especially if I do even a single move that is close to my limit (usually if I get a sequence or body position completely wrong), but I also feel like I am able to recover on smaller and smaller holds, and if not recover, at least not get any more pumped allowing for a chalk and a breather. Last night I made it through the crux with one move left to a jug, but dry fired off the two small handholds a split second before going for the move. When I got there, I was surprised to not feel very tired, which was a lot different to previous attempts where swollen forearms made it impossible to lock the positions. My next attempt, just as daylight disappeared, saw a return to pumpsville, which begs the question, what made that one time so different?

The proj is going to have to go on the back burner for a few weeks because tomorrow I am off back to Mallorca to join some of my US TNF friends for 10 days of psicobloc. You can keep track of the groups comings and goings at http://verticalcarnival.blogspot.com where Cedar Wright will be posting regular updates and videos of all the action. After that its back to the UK for a week or so for an event with Blacks and TNF UK at Plas y Brenin before coming back to IBK at the beginning of October, just in time for the “sendin” temps.

My running shoes and shorts are packed in my bag, now if only I can track down a fingerboard...